Double Spiral 4-in-1 Chainmaille Instructions

About Intermediate Weave Kits

Our Beginning Weave Kits each contain information on the sorts of tools you need to make chain and on how to close rings perfectly. At the Intermediate level, it’s assumed you know those things and the information isn’t repeated here. If you need that information, you will find it in our how-to instructions.

About Double Spiral 4-in-1

Double Spiral 4-in-1 is a slightly more complex variation of Spiral 4-in-1, also known as single spiral chain. Single spiral is beautiful but usefully limited by the fact that the spiral unwinds unless fixed at both ends. It’s wonderful for dangling embellishments on chokers and ornaments, but not as useful on its own. You’ll learn how to weave single spiral for embellishments, but the bracelet you’ll be making is a lovely variation, Double Spiral 4-in-1, which holds its spiral shape by virtue of doubling the rings throughout the weave. As you’ll see, it makes a stunningly elegant chain.

Single Spiral 4-in-1

This section illustrates the spiral in its simplest form and will serve as reference for making spiral embellishments, fixed at both ends. (Don’t make this now, just follow along with the pictures to understand how it’s done.)

To begin single spiral, two rings are joined (photo 1). The first ring is held stationary while the second ring (on the right) is rotated clockwise until it won’t turn any more (photo 2). Another ring is added through both (photo 3), and also turned clockwise as far as it will go (photo 4). Note that the top part of each ring lies in front of the previously added ring.

Another open ring is added through the last two rings in the chain and, again, the chain is rotated clockwise as far as it will go. Repeat that step for the length of the chain.

You can clearly see the spiral taking shape. Unfortunately, the beautiful spiral shape is lost when the chain is held without any tension on the ends. And that’s why we’re not making single spiral as a bracelet.

Weaving Double Spiral 4-in-1

Step 1. Start a 2-2 chain

Open 20 or more rings and make a 2-2 chain. Put a twisty tie through one set of two rings.

Step 2. Twist clockwise

Hold onto the twisty tie and arrange the rings by twisting the last set of rings over and away from you (clockwise).

The beginning rings, with the twisty tie attached, are at the back and the new rings are in front at the top. As you weave this chain, you’ll always add rings in sets of two and they’ll always be in front of the last pair when the chain is twisted clockwise as shown.

Step 3. Through the intersection

Pick up an open ring and put it through the intersection of those two sets of rings. (These photos show the same step from two different angles.) The open ring passes through all four of the rings you’re holding. Close the open ring and add another beside it.

For single spiral, you pass one new ring through two previous courses of the pattern, which results in an unstable spiral. For this variation, two new rings are passed through two previous courses of the pattern, which results in a stable spiral that doesn’t lose its twist. Single spiral can also be made stable by weaving it from rings made with half round wire. These rings are round on the outside, but flat on the inside, like a ring for your finger.

Step 4. Twist again

Twist the last set of rings clockwise so they’re arranged in your fingertips as shown.

Step 5. Add the next pair

Insert an open ring into the intersection of the last two sets of rings. It should pass through the last four rings on the chain. Add a ring alongside it; when you shake it out, your chain should look like the second photo. Twist the last set of rings clockwise and arrange the chain in your fingertips.

The first and fourth (last) sets of rings are lined up with each other. The next set of rings you add will be in line with the second set, and this pattern will continue, new rings always lining up with those rings three sets back.

Step 6. Repeat

While holding the chain spiraled clockwise, find the intersection of the last two sets of rings. Make a space with your awl if necessary and insert an open ring in that space. Close it and put another open ring next to it. (The first two photos show the same step from two angles.) Your chain should now look like the third photo: you can see the spiral pattern beginning to take shape.

Repeat step 6 until your chain is the desired length. Everything you need to remember is in the last picture: the next set of rings always goes here.

Attaching the clasp

Attaching the clasp is simply a matter of opening the last set of two rings at each end of your chain and putting the soldered rings of the clasp through them. You can remove the loose ring at the base of the clasp, or you can leave it if you prefer.

Use your pliers to gently squeeze closed or pry open the hook, if needed, to leave just enough room for the soldered ring to get through.

Congratulations, you’ve just made your first Double Spiral 4-in-1 chain bracelet… and it’s gorgeous. Yay!

Polishing your bracelet

When you’ve finished making your bracelet, you might notice that the rings aren’t as bright and shiny as they were when you started. This is because working the metal rearranges its molecules, ruffling them up a bit. But no worries, you’ll soon have it shining brilliantly again.

There are lots of ways to polish silver, but simple and non-toxic is always best. Use an old toothbrush to give your new bracelet a thorough scrubbing in your hand with a paste of baking soda and water. Baking soda does wonders for silver, removing tarnish and bringing out the shine.

Now decide if you want the brilliant finish of shiny new silver or the muted gleam and depth of an antique finish. If you want it bright, it’s ready to wear. The silver will tarnish over time, especially if it’s exposed to sulfur or chlorine, but you can polish it shiny again with baking soda or a silver polishing cloth as often as you like.

You can polish your chains to a brilliant shine using a clean rock tumbler with mixed stainless steel shot as the tumbling media, along with water and a little plain dishwashing liquid. (If you have a choice, it’s better to get shot without pins so you don’t have to pick them out of your chains after tumbling.) Tumble polish for thirty minutes to several hours, according to your preference, and your chains will shine as brightly as our loose rings. We tumble polish every last one of them for 2–3 hours before sending them out in the world to make something of themselves.

Adding an antique finish

A beautiful antiqued look results from tarnishing the chain thoroughly, then polishing the tarnish from the high spots, leaving it dark in the crevices. Sulphur is a powerful tarnishing agent, available as a chemical (Liver of Sulphur), in the water of natural sulphur springs and in eggs. To use an egg, hard boil it and cut it in half while it’s still hot. Seal it in a plastic bag or dish with your bracelet, but arrange them so they aren’t touching, to avoid spotting the silver.

Leave it overnight, or until it’s dark enough. When it’s as dark as you like, wash and dry it thoroughly, then polish it with baking soda or in your tumbler or with a polishing cloth to shine up just the high spots. Work with it until it’s just right.

Tarnish wears off over time where it brushes against clothing and skin, but you can re-tarnish and re-polish as often as you like. Avoid getting bleach on your sterling, unless you want to tarnish it a dark grey.

Ring sizes for Double Spiral 4-in-1

Each inchpack holds the rings for one inch of chain.

What’s next

When you’ve mastered the Intermediate Weaves, you’re ready for our Journeyman Projects, an array of beautiful chain jewelry you can make using what you’ve learned. Jens Pind’s builds directly on Double Spiral 4-in-1.

Want everything in one box? See our Weave Kits and Project Kits.

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