Frequently Asked Questions
We've been making rings and answering these questions since 2003. If yours isn't here, ask us and we'll be glad to help.
Our Rings
What gauge system do you use for your jump rings?
We use AWG (American Wire Gauge), the standard for precious metals, on every ring we make. In round wire we make 26g, 24g, 22g, 21g, 20g, 19g, 18g, 17g, 16g, 14g, 12g, 10g and 8g, from 0.4049mm up to 3.2639mm. If your pattern was written in SWG, convert it first. Shaped wire comes in fewer gauges than round wire, and each shape's collection lists what we make in it. Every ring product names its gauge and its size, like 18g/4.0mm. SWG wire is thicker than AWG at the same number, so the numbers don't line up one to one.
Converting SWG to AWG · Round wire jump rings
How do I convert SWG to AWG for a chainmaille pattern?
Look up your pattern's SWG gauge on our conversion chart, then pick the AWG gauge closest to it in millimeters. The same number isn't the same size: 16 SWG is 1.6256mm, which matches our 14 AWG at 1.6281mm, not our 16 AWG. After that, check the aspect ratio so the weave still fits. SWG (Standard Wire Gauge) is mostly used for steel and other ferrous metals, so many armor and stainless steel patterns are written in it. Precious metals are gauged in AWG, like ours.
Converting SWG to AWG chart · Table of Aspect Ratios
What wire shapes do you make rings in?
We make rings in seven wire shapes: round (RD), square (SQ), diamond (DI), twisted (TW), half round (HR), half flat (HF) and multistrand (MS). Round is our default, so any ring or pack that doesn't name a shape is round wire. Shaped wire is always labeled with its two-letter code. Shaped wire sits differently in a weave than round wire of the same gauge, so test a small quantity before you start a big project in a new shape. Each shape has its own collection.
All jump rings · Square wire rings
Are your jump rings saw cut?
Yes. Gary saw cuts every ring by hand with hand-guided power tools, so the kerf is tiny and the ends have a mirror finish. That's why our rings close without a gap or a pinched edge. Every coil is wound by hand too, and we've made our rings this way in our own shop since 2003. We don't use ring-making machines, because they don't make fine rings. If a batch ever comes off the saw with burrs, we scrap the whole batch instead of selling it.
About Our Rings · Why Professionals Buy Our Rings
Why should I buy pre-cut rings instead of making my own?
Buy pre-cut rings when you want every ring to match, today and years from now. We buy our wire from one consistent source, wind it on the same mandrels, saw cut it by hand and scrap any burred batch. Your next order will fit the rings you already have, so your designs keep working. Wire from different mills can run a gauge thick or thin, and mandrels, coiling and blade thickness all change the finished size. Rings from different makers rarely match. That matters most when you sell your work and need the same piece again next year.
Why Professionals Buy Our Rings · Shop jump rings
What are the best pre-cut chainmaille rings to buy?
It depends on what you're making. For armour, kids' projects, or practice pieces, inexpensive base-metal rings are often all you need. For fine jewelry, you want rings that are precisely sized, saw cut for clean, nearly invisible closures, and made from real precious metals in true AWG gauges. That's what we've made by hand since 2003, and nobody does it better.
Why professionals buy our rings
What metals do you make rings in?
We make rings in sterling silver, Argentium sterling, Palladium Sterling, Platinum Sterling, silver-filled, yellow and rose gold-filled, copper and bronze, and solid 18K gold by custom order. White gold-filled is hard to find, and it's so grey next to silver that no one has asked for it in years. Each ring lists the metals you can order today. Some metals and sizes are out of stock for a while and may come back. Right now, for example, Palladium Sterling and Platinum Sterling aren't on the shop, and silver-filled is unavailable in 16g and heavier. Our 18K comes in yellow, red, pink, green and palladium white gold.
About Our Metals · Shop jump rings
What's the difference between sterling silver and Argentium?
Both are sterling, at least 92.5% pure silver. Traditional sterling is alloyed with copper. In Argentium, some of that copper is replaced with germanium, so it resists tarnish much longer and can be fused. Polished, the two look the same, and our Argentium rings are as strong as our sterling. You can make Argentium more tarnish resistant by baking it at a low heat in a home oven, and you can harden it a lot by baking it at a higher heat. If you want the slow tarnish and fusing that fine silver offers, we recommend Argentium instead.
What does gold-filled mean?
Gold-filled means a real layer of karat gold is heat- and pressure-bonded to a brass core. Our gold-filled is 14/20, so 14K gold makes up 1/20th of the metal's weight. That's far more gold than plating, which is only a microscopic layer, so gold-filled wears well and doesn't flake. We make yellow and rose gold-filled rings. Silver-filled is made the same way, with fine silver making up 1/10th of the weight over a brass core.
Are your jump rings nickel-free?
Our sterling, Argentium, gold-filled, silver-filled and bronze come from Rio Grande, which adds no nickel to sterling, Argentium, yellow or rose gold-filled, or bronze. Our copper is from Parawire, which makes its wire from 99% pure copper. Silver-filled is the exception: it has a thin nickel layer under the silver. No metal can be guaranteed 100% nickel-free, because tiny trace amounts are always possible. If you have a nickel allergy or sell into the EU, sterling, Argentium, yellow or rose gold-filled, bronze and copper are the safest choices. White gold-filled contains significant nickel.
Can I mix gold-filled, silver-filled and sterling rings in one piece?
Yes, in round wire. Our gold-filled and silver-filled round rings are an almost exact match to our sterling round rings. Shaped wire is different: filled square, diamond, twisted and half round wire are a slightly different shape from our precious metal shaped wire. Ask us before mixing shaped rings. Gold-filled and silver-filled shaped wire match each other exactly. Our bronze round rings usually measure within 1/10th of a millimeter of our sterling, but bronze feels about one gauge stiffer, and shaped bronze or bronze 22g and finer can vary more.
Do you make 14K gold, fine silver or 24K gold rings?
No 14K, and no fine silver or 24K for butted maille. Our process hardens metal so much that 14K becomes too stiff to close with smooth-jawed pliers, while fine silver and 24K stay too soft to hold a weave. We make solid 18K gold rings by custom order, in 16g and finer. 18K rings are priced by the ring, and small order minimums apply (for example, 20 rings in 16g and 25 in 18g). We can also make fine silver and 24K rings by custom order for loop-in-loop work. Request a quote through our contact form.
Choosing Sizes & Weaves
What is aspect ratio in chainmaille, and why does it matter?
Aspect ratio (AR) is a ring's inside diameter divided by its wire diameter. It tells you whether a weave will fit and how strong the ring is. An AR of 3 or less is a fat, strong ring. An AR of 5 or more is a big, skinny ring that should only be used where many rings share the load. Two rings with the same AR work the same way in a weave, even at different gauges. That's how a weave scales up or down. In general, rings with an AR over 8.0 won't reliably stay closed in chainmaille unless they're soldered or fused.
Aspect Ratio in Chainmaille Design · Table of Aspect Ratios
What size jump rings do I need for Byzantine chain?
Use the sizes on our Byzantine ring size page, which lists the ring we've tested for each gauge from 12g to 24g round wire. You'll also find the rings per inch for each size. The easiest way to get it right is a Byzantine Inchpack, which has exactly those rings for one inch of chain. Every weave we sell has its own ring size page, and the other weaves' pages are linked below. Our free Byzantine instructions teach the fold.
Byzantine ring sizes · Byzantine Inchpacks · Byzantine Chain Instructions · 1-in-1 Chain ring sizes · 2-in-2 Chain ring sizes · 3-in-3 Chain ring sizes · Barrel Weave ring sizes · Box Chain ring sizes · Byzantine Rose ring sizes · Double Spiral 4-in-1 ring sizes · Dragonscale ring sizes · Elfweave ring sizes · European 4-in-1 ring sizes · Flower Chain ring sizes · Garter Belt ring sizes · Half Persian 3-in-1 ring sizes · Half Persian 4-in-1 ring sizes · Inverted Roundmaille ring sizes · Jens Pinds ring sizes · Kinged Vipera Berus ring sizes · Olivia ring sizes · Parallel Chain ring sizes · Persian ring sizes · Roundmaille ring sizes · Turkish Roundmaille ring sizes · Vertebrae ring sizes · Vipera Berus ring sizes · Vortex Medallions ring sizes · Wallflowers ring sizes
How do I convert fractional-inch ring sizes to metric?
Divide the fraction, then multiply by 25.4 to get millimeters. For example, 1/8 inch is 0.125 inch, or 3.175mm. You may not need to convert at all, because we now wind rings on imperial mandrels from 1/16 to 1/2 inch, as well as metric mandrels from 1.0mm to 20.0mm. Our imperial ring products show both measurements, like 18g 1/8in (3.175mm), so you can match an older pattern exactly.
Converting Imperial Sizes to Metric · About Our Rings
Why is my ring a little bigger than the mandrel size?
That's springback. The size we list is the mandrel we wind the ring on, and wire relaxes slightly once it comes off, so the real inside diameter is a little larger. How much depends on the metal, its temper and the aspect ratio. That's why we test our weave sizes in each metal. Springback is also why rings from different makers rarely match, even when they're labeled with the same gauge and mandrel size.
About Our Rings · Aspect Ratio in Chainmaille Design
Kits, Kitpacks, Inchpacks & Unitpacks
What's the difference between a kit, a kitpack, an inchpack and a unitpack?
A kit teaches you something: it comes with instructions, rings, a clasp and other supplies, all in a tin. A kitpack is the rings only, for making that kit's piece again. An inchpack is the rings for one inch of a weave. A unitpack is the rings for one unit, like a single medallion. Weave Kits each teach a new weave and need no experience. Project Kits teach a variation, so they ask you to know a certain weave first. Kitpacks, inchpacks and unitpacks don't include instructions, but most of our instructions are free.
Weave Kits · Project Kits · Kitpacks & Inchpacks
Which chainmaille kit should a beginner start with?
Start with our Beginning Weaves Kit. You'll make three bracelets, Flower Chain, 3-in-3 Chain and Byzantine, each up to 10 inches long. It includes the Apprentice Guide, instructions for all three weaves, the rings, three clasps, two pairs of smooth-jawed pliers and our ring tools, all in a big tin. By the time you've finished all three bracelets, you'll have a professional-level foundation and be ready for any weave you like. Each bracelet is also sold as its own Weave Kit. Byzantine looks complex, but it's still a beginner weave, so you can start there if you're eager. If you're unsure of yourself, go in order: Flower Chain, then 3-in-3, then Byzantine.
Beginning Weaves Kit · Weave Kits
How long does it take to make a beginner chainmaille bracelet?
Most people take two to three hours to make their first Byzantine bracelet. The longest we've heard of was four hours, and that was Gary. Many customers tell us each beginner bracelet took them an evening. Don't rush it. Closing every ring perfectly matters more than speed, and speed comes on its own. Making chain is a lot like meditation, so it's worth enjoying the time.
What tools do I need for chainmaille?
Two pairs of good-quality, smooth-jawed jewelers' pliers are all you need. Smooth jaws matter, because serrated jaws mark the metal. The Beginning Weaves Kit is the only kit that includes pliers, two pairs. Our other kits include any special tool the weave calls for, like a ring tool, but you'll need your own pliers. A tumbler isn't required, but once you have one, you won't want to work without it. It brings back the shine and smooths out small scratches.
Can you make a kit with different rings or a different metal?
Yes, we can make substitutions in a kit, though a substitution might add a charge. Contact us before you order and tell us what you have in mind. Each kit's rings were chosen after weaving the design in every workable size, so we'll let you know if a change would make the piece harder to learn. Most kits already come in several metals, so check the options on the kit first. Once you know a weave, you can make it in any size or metal with our rings and inchpacks.
How many inchpacks do I need?
Order one inchpack for every inch of chain you want to make. Each one has the rings for one inch of that weave in the size we tested and use ourselves. For a 7-inch bracelet, that's about seven inchpacks, depending on how much length your clasp adds. Unitpacks work the same way, one per unit. Inchpacks are saw cut and sold in round wire, and some weaves also come in square or diamond wire, labeled clearly. The weave's ring size page shows the rings per inch, if you'd rather order loose rings.
Kitpacks & Inchpacks · Byzantine Inchpacks
Instructions & Technique
Are your chainmaille instructions free?
Most of them are. We have 18 free instruction sets you can open and download as PDFs, including our Introduction to Chainmaille, the Apprentice Guide, Byzantine, European 4-in-1 and Jens Pind's Linkage. Our six paid instructions, like Half Persian 4-in-1, are printed booklets that we ship to you. Downloadable PDF versions are coming. Free instructions don't include rings, so pair them with a kitpack or inchpacks in the size we tested.
Instructions · Introduction to Chainmaille
Can I sell jewelry I make from your kits and instructions?
Yes, absolutely. You're welcome to make and sell as many pieces as you like from our kits and instructions. We only ask that you don't publish or share our instructions or our ring sizes. The instructions are copyrighted, but everything you make with them is yours to sell. If you're starting to sell your work, our ARTLAB essays on pricing are a good place to begin.
Pricing Your Work · Instructions
Can I teach chainmaille classes using your designs?
Yes. You're welcome to use our free instructions for teaching. Our Urban Maille Exclusives are different. They're our own original designs, so please don't teach them without our permission. Just ask, and we'll work it out. In every case, please don't copy or hand out our printed booklets. We've always believed you can keep your designs to yourself or teach them, but not both. That's why we never restrict what you sell.
How do I stop marking my rings with my pliers?
Hold the rings gently and focus on closing each one perfectly, not on speed. The death-grip stage is part of learning, and you'll outgrow it as your hands get stronger. Coverings on the plier tips cut down on marks, but they also make the tips fat and slow your learning, so smooth pliers are better. Coverings like Tool Magic, moleskin or shrink tubing do help in the meantime. A tumbler will smooth out small scratches, but not gouges, so scrap any ring you gouge.
How do I bring back the shine on my chainmaille?
Tumble polishing is by far the best way to bring back the shine. A rotary rock tumbler with about two pounds of mixed stainless steel shot, water and a squirt of original blue Dawn burnishes every ring. It also smooths away mild scratches and hardens the outer layer of the metal. Polish fine chains and earwires separately, because they tangle. Our Tumble Polishing guide covers setup, timing and what not to tumble, along with other polishing methods if you don't have a tumbler.
Ordering & Shipping
What does MTO mean, and how long does it take?
MTO means Make To Order: we don't make the item until someone orders it. MTO items can take up to 10 business days to ship, while stock items usually ship in 1 to 4 business days. We make over 30,000 ring sizes, shapes and metal combinations, so we can't keep all of them in stock. In most cases, MTO items can't be returned, even with the seal intact, so order the smallest amount the first time. If you need to cancel, contact us before the item goes into production and you may get a full refund. After that, you're responsible for the production costs, and we'll recover what we can, usually at scrap value.
How long will my order take to arrive?
Stock orders ship in 1 to 4 business days, and made-to-order items take up to 10. In the US, you choose USPS or UPS at checkout and see the live rate and speed for each, from Ground Advantage to UPS 2nd Day Air. US orders of $250 or more can ship free, arriving in 8 to 12 days. Faster shipping shortens the transit time, not the time we need to make and pack your order. If you're working against a date, contact us before you order.
Shipping Policy · Production Status
Do you ship internationally?
Yes. We ship to many countries by USPS Priority Mail International, USPS First-Class Package International and UPS Worldwide Saver, and checkout shows the live rate for each. Your country may charge duty, taxes or fees, which we can't control or predict. We fill out every customs form accurately, and we can't mark a package as a gift. Customs can hold a package for several days. If that happens, your local post office can usually tell you why, using your tracking number.
What forms of payment do you accept?
We accept major credit cards, PayPal, Shop Pay, Apple Pay and Google Pay, all at checkout. You don't need an account to check out: just enter your email, and sign in only if you want your order history saved. We don't accept Bitcoin right now. If you'd rather not pay online, contact us before you order.
Returns & Refunds
Can I return rings?
Yes, if the seal is unbroken. Within 30 days, we refund 100% of the price of stock rings that haven't been opened. Our tins have glass tops so you can check the size before you break the seal. Once a tin is opened, we can only offer the scrap value, and most MTO rings can't be returned. Please contact us before you send anything back. We'll check the item's condition, give you a return authorization and tell you how to mark the package. Unsealed items like tools and clasps can be returned within 30 days. We refund kits and ringsets in whole or in part after we inspect them.
Returns, Replacements and Refunds · Production Status
Wholesale & Quantity Pricing
Do you offer wholesale pricing?
Yes. Wholesale is 50% off the things we make: rings and things made of rings, like kits, kitpacks, inchpacks, unitpacks, ringsets and assortments. Nothing else is sold wholesale. Wholesale orders need to total at least $500. Apply on our Wholesale page, or order through Faire, where your first order minimum is $150. Tools, findings, wire and instructions aren't available at wholesale prices, because we price them close to cost. For smaller orders, our quantity discounts are still the way to go: buy enough of one ring size and that size is 25% or 50% off, with no account or business license needed.
Wholesale · Are You in Business? · Wholesale!
Do you give quantity discounts on rings?
Yes, on every ring we make. Buy enough of one ring size and that size is 25% off, and buy more and it's 50% off. Anyone can get these discounts, with no business license needed. The quantities depend on gauge and wire shape. For example, 18g round is 83 rings for 25% off and 330 for 50%. Each ring page shows its discount table. Our prices start from what each ring actually costs us to make, and the discounts pass along the time we save making more at once. We don't discount tools or components, because we price them close to cost.
Round wire jump rings · Are You in Business?
About Urban Maille
Who makes Urban Maille rings and kits?
We do, Aislyn and Gary, a husband-and-wife team high in the Colorado Rockies. Urban Maille is downstairs and we live upstairs. Gary learned to cut the most beautiful rings, and he still makes every one. Kits were his idea. Aislyn designed the kits and our learning system and wrote the books. Aislyn fell for chainmaille while searching for real bellydance jewelry, made of precious metal and meant to be seen up close, not costume pieces made of base metal. We've run Urban Maille full time since 2003, and we still love hearing from people who share our appreciation of the ancient artistry of chains.
Is maille a real word, and how do you say it?
Yes. Maille is French for mesh, and chainmaille is mesh made of chain. We say it the English way, just like "male". We spell it the French way because "mail" means the post, not mesh. Aislyn's name, by the way, is pronounced "eyes-lin". Maille isn't only chain. Coton maille, for example, is cotton mesh.
How do I contact Urban Maille?
Call us at 720-664-4555, email contactus@urbanmaille.com, or use the form on our Contact page. We're happy to answer questions about ring sizes, weaves or your order before you buy. We're a two-person shop in the Colorado Rockies, so please allow a little time for a reply.